DALLAS MORNING NEWS RESTAURANT REVIEW
By KIM HARWELL / Dining Writer
Tuna tartare has become an almost ubiquitous appetizer, but Isabella's version seemed fresh thanks to a creamy topping of puréed garbanzo beans with olive oil, Italian parsley and garlic. The richness of the spread, reminiscent of hummus, made a nice foil to the bright, fresh flavor of the minced yellowtail. A spicy tomato sauce added an appropriately Italian touch.
Another starter, bacon-wrapped shrimp with spinach salad, sounded rather pedestrian but was the one dish that left us talking days later. The half-dozen shrimp, swaddled tightly in a thin layer of smoky Italian pork, were firm and delicious, but it was the spinach, heated until barely wilted and coated with a delectably sweet-tart limoncello dressing, that made us swoon.
Penne pasta con pollo was a light refresher, its macaroni tubes tossed with pieces of supple chicken, artichokes, sun-dried tomatoes and sliced zucchini in a delicate basil-infused broth. It made a nice change of pace from the heaviness of a typical cream sauce
Veal saltimbocca was a nice version, with a thin, tender fillet of veal paired with prosciutto in a rich mushroom-laden Madeira sauce and sided with creamy mashed potatoes. We were similarly pleased with the grilled branzino , a moist, flaky slab of sea bass topped with a paste of puréed olives and served on a bed of sautéed red onions. Though the pungent olives seemed an overpowering match for the mild bass, the ratio of topping to fish kept the flavors in balance.
Desserts included a creamy block of coffee-kissed tiramisu and a rich, not-too-sweet Italian cheesecake made with mascarpone and served on a sturdy, toasted pistachio crust. Pistachios are also used to good effect in a semifreddo , a partially frozen custard flavored with the pale green nuts.
An extensive wine list features plenty of moderately priced bottles from Italy , along with familiar brands from California , Chile and elsewhere. A nice touch: Two pages of $25 offerings are helpfully presented for quaffers on a budget.
Service was mostly smooth and professional
About ISABELLA'S Italian Restaurant
Price continues to welcome potential investors to join the Isabella's team, which is already supported by a group that includes world-renown hoteliers, bankers and more. For more information on Isabella's or to make a future reservation, call Kenyon Price at 214- 618 - 3384 , or go to www.isabellasfrisco.com .
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